Tank liners are an easy and inexpensive solution to a broad range of water storage tank problems. New World's liners can be used in new tanks or in exisitng tanks that leak. This includes tanks made of concrete, wood and steel. The tanks need to be structurally sound but not liquid tight.

Liner cost depends on many variables including size, type of material (PVC, rubber, CSPE, urethane, etc.), potable or industrial grade, thickness and whether the lining material needs to be supported or unsupported. Once we determine your specific requirements, we can make recommendations and quote on the liner, supplies, shipping costs and/or installation (note* we generally limit installations to Central and Northern California).

The type of tank and its plumbing will determine the additional installation supplies that will be needed. Generally, the plumbing will need some changes in order to achieve a watertight fit to the liner. Also, you need a way to attach the liner to the inside top perimeter of the tank. In most cases, a geo-textile membrane will be recommended between the tank and the liner as additional protection to the liner. We can supply all your needs once we determine what they are.

Material to be used will depend on several factors: * Type of container - Is it wood, concrete or metal? * Temperature - Is there an extreme temperature variation to be considered? * Will the liner be exposed to ultraviolet light or ozone? * Contents of container - Is it for potable or industrial use? * Shape - Is the tank round, square, rectangle, oval, decagon, hexagon, octagon or a triangle? * Size - What is the width, length and height or diameter and height? * Location - Can you drive to the tank in a regular vehicle or is a 4 wheel drive vehicle reguired? * Is there anything unusual in the tank, any penetrations, bolts extending up off the floor, metal ladder attached to tank wall or ceiling, roof supports, etc? Some materials may be specifically formulated for containment of gas and oil products, other materials may be manufactured to handle extreme temperatures.

Wood tanks will eventually leak due to the constant flucuations in water levels. People have tried many methods to stop leaks...tar, wooden plugs, redwood sawdust, etc. These methods are not recommended for a variety of reasons. Liners work and are an affordable way to add many additional years to the life of the tank.

Dry rot is a fungus that causes wood to crumble. It can work away at the wood so inconspicuously that it can easily escape your notice. If you find evidence of dry rot, termites or other bug damage, consult a licensed termite inspector or pest control professional. The wood from Coast Redwood and Sierra Redwood trees is almost impervious to rot which is attributed to high tannin content of the trees. When redwood timbers are used for water storage, tannins are removed and consequently the wood is no longer impervious to rot and is susceptible to insect damage and this includes termites. If the damage is extreme, the stave should be replaced if you can locate a company that will perform this service. If you cannot replace the stave to stop the damage from occurring, reinforce the weakened area with plywood and line the tank.

In small wooden tanks, PVC is easiest liner material to install and also the least costly. Thicker material, such as 45 mil CSPE, is also suitable and generally recommended since it is a higher grade of material, NSF approved and long lasting. PVC needs to be replaced every 8-15 years. In large or tall wooden tanks CSPE is recommended. Over the years, we have become convinced that when considering costs v projected years of use, CSPE is far better. The downtime related to installation is little longer with CSPE, costs are more than doubled, but projected years of use is doubled, if not tripled. Another consideration is reducing risks that workers are exposed to in confined space situation. Install once every 30 years or more instead of once every 8-15 years.

Wood staves will shrink to some degree depending on location and exposure to sunlight. As a regular part of your tank maintenance program the tank should be checked occasionally and, if needed, the bands or hoops tightened. If you are unable to tighen the rings, add new ones that can be tighened. Extreme caution should be used if you attempt to remove old rings. Our recommendation would be to leave them in place.

In smaller metal or concrete tanks any of the materials are acceptable. CSPE will be recommended for metal and concrete if any of the following conditions exist:

* If the tank has an open top and the liner is exposed to ultraviolet light. * If the size of the tank or reservoir dictates that the liner be made and installed in more than one panel. * If the concrete is heavily cracked or if the metal is pitted. * If there are permanent non-moveable support posts; * If there are concrete dividers with or without penetrations or openings; * If there are any unusual penetrations through the floor, interior dividers or exterior tank wall.

A geo-textile underlayment material should always be used between the liner and tank wall to protect the liner.

After installation has been completed, seal the exposed geo-textile at the top of the tank with a bead of silicone around the entire circumference. If this step isn't performed, condensation from the upper part of the wall and ceiling will seep down through the geo-textile.

Metal tanks need to be cleaned then coated, if needed, with a rust inhibitor. We highly recommend that a geo-textile underlayment be used between the tank and the liner to protect the liner and to help insulate it from heat and cold transmission. Weep holes should be drilled in the bottom of the metal tanks for release of condensation. General installation instructions are available.

* ALL MEMBRANE LINING MATERIALS TRANSMIT WATER VAPOR TO SOME DEGREE. BEFORE THE TANK IS LINED,INSPECT IT AND MAKE NECESSARY REPAIRS. Begin with a visual inspection, look for obvious problems. * In wooden tanks, repair damaged roofs and add additional ventilation if needed, replace or repair torn screen, fill in holes on outside of tank caused by woodpeckers and staple a fine/coated mesh screen to outside of tank to keep woodpeckers from doing further damage to tank. DO NOT PAINT THE OUTSIDE OF REDWOOD TANKS WITH PAINT OF ANY KIND. THIS WILL ACCELERATE DETERIORATION AND CAN EVEN BE THE BEGINNING OF DETERIORATION. WOODEN TANK EXTERIORS NEED TO BE EXPOSED TO AIR.

IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT WITH ALL TANKS THAT THE AREA AT THE BASE OF THE TANK BE KEPT CLEAR OF BRUSH, DIRT AND DEBRIS. DETERIORATION OF THE TANK COULD BE ACCELERATED IF ALLOWED TO ACCUMULATE.

Large cracks in concrete tanks should be filled with caulking. Small cracks can be ignored. The liner and geo-textile underlayment will work well without having to do any major repair work.

Metal tanks should be cleaned and painted with a rust protectant where needed. In areas that have rusted completely through the tank, repair can be made by bolting or welding a metal plate over the weakened, damaged area to reinforce it before lining. Coated metal tanks, if the coating is still in fair condition, can have a liner installed over the coating. Exposed area of the tank can be painted with a rust inhibitor and a geo-textile underlayment is recommended. ***IMPORTANT***Coating with a rust inhibitor over large areas should only be performed by experienced contractors that have been trained to work in confined spaces and handle chemicals. This can be a life threatening situation if handled improperly.***

Coated metal tanks, if the coating is still in fair condition, can have a liner installed over the coating. Exposed areas of the tank can be painted with a rust inhibitor and a geo-textile underlayment is recommended.

There are very few tanks that are exactly the same in construction and plumbing, consequently, written installation instructions given by the manufacturer can only be in general terms.

Depending on the size of the liner, installation may take only a few hours by a couple of installers or several days to a week with a number of installers. Generally two people can install a medium size liner (8' diameter x 8' high) in approximately four to six hours.

Professional installation in recommended if the tank is... 1) Larger than 10,000 gallons; 2) Has one or more roof support posts; 3) Requires specially fabricated plumbing; 4) Requires special installation tooling or equipment; 5) Requires adapting liners to side manholes, protrusions on tank wall, opening through center dividers, etc. 6) Requires exhausing fumes.

Liners manufactured in two or more sections will be completed during the installation process using field seaming techniques with wedge welders, hot air guns and teflon rollers. The use of solvent and glue is rare but, at times, may be a necessity.

It is recommended that the liner air for a period of at least one full week whenever solvent and glue is used during the installation process to allow for dissipation of solvent and glue residue. (Please note, we avoid the use of solvent and glue whenever possible).

New World can fabricate most liners in one piece, however, two or more sections or a split liner (open on one side and across the bottom to the center post) may be required if there is a permanent, non-moveable center post. Large liners may be fabricated in several sections due to weight and handling requirements.

There are only a few companies remaining in the U.S. that manufacture redwood tanks and you may or may not be able to contract for replacement of staves.

Medium and large liners are rolled in a fashion which allow them to be "snaked" into the tank through the existing manhole.

New World Offers toll free telephone assistance to anyone wishing to do their own installation in smaller tanks. General installation guidelines are available on this web site. If you still have questions after reading them, then call our toll free number 1-800-523-8853, Monday thru Friday, 8 am to 5 pm PST